Located in the southwestern section of the old city, La Kalsa was designed and constructed by Arab rulers as a walled city for the emir and his ministers. Already in serious decline before World War II, La Kalsa was heavily bombed in 1943 by Allied bombers seeking to conquer Sicily from Fascist control (the neighborhood was on the bombers' radar for its strategic location near the city's port). La Kalsa in the postwar era sank into deeper misery and squalor.

When the Albanian nun Mother Teresa visited La Kalsa, she lectured the well-heeled Palermitani, telling them that since Palermo was as poor as a third-world country, "charity should begin at home." Today, after endless delays, Mother Teresa's words are finally being heard, and La Kalsa is slowly getting the restorative attention it deserves.

La Kalsa is bounded by the port of La Cala on one side and Via Garibaldi and Via Paternostro to the east and west, and by Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Lincoln to the north and south. One of its main thoroughfares is Via Butero.

In the heart of the quarter, a good place to begin a rambling discovery is at the fancifully baroque church of Santa Teresa alla Kalsa, opening onto the center square, Piazza della Kalsa (tel. 091-6171658). The church was constructed between 1686 and 1706 to the designs of Giacomo Amato. Two orders of Corinthian columns grace its stately facade. If it's open, you can visit the luminous interior to see impressive stuccoes of Giuseppe and Procopio Serpotta.

To reach Piazza della Kalsa, you enter near La Cala, the harbor, through Porta dei Greci, right off the busy thoroughfare, Foro Italico. Arm yourself with a good, detailed map, however, before venturing into the quarter.

From Piazza della Kalsa, you can walk north along Via Torremuzza until you come to Via Alloro, La Kalsa's main street in the Middle Ages. Head west along this street for a close encounter with the decaying district. Sadly, the street was once lined with elegant palaces, which were either destroyed, torn down, or burnt down, or are still standing, albeit most likely in a serious state of decay.

One of the grandest palaces still standing along Via Alloro is the Palazzo Abatellis, home today to the Galleria Regionale di Sicilia.

After passing Palazzo Abatellis, you will shortly come to Via della Vetriera. At this point, head south for another close encounter with La Kalsa. This street will lead you to Chiesa di Santa Maria dello Spasimo, Via dello Spasimo (tel. 091-6161486). A melancholy aura hangs over this church, originally constructed in the late Gothic style in 1506. This is the only example of the Northern Gothic style on the island. The walls went up, as did a soaring apse. But the builders abandoned the project and it was never roofed. Naturally, its interior was never finished either. Two towering ailanthus trees adopted it and now grow tall and proud. The church ruins make a marvelous venue for performances in summer.

For a final look at La Kalsa, you can head west across Piazza della Spasimo, after bidding adieu to Santa Maria dello Spasimo. This will lead you into the Piazza Magione. From here you can enjoy the facade of La Magione or the Chiesa della Santi Trinità (tel. 091-6170596), an excellent example of a Norman church constructed in 1191 by the Cistercians. Holy Roman Emperor Henry VI awarded it to the Teutonic Knights in 1197, and they remained in control until 1492, when Pope Innocent VIII kicked them out of Italy.

The knights are gone, but their marble funereal slabs can still be seen on the church floor. The austere interior is divided in a trio of aisles, and the beautiful cloisters date from the founding of the original Cistercian monastery. The cloisters were severely damaged when the 1943 Allied air raids bombed the church.

Where Mafia Wannabes Get Street Smarts--La Kalsa is just as dangerous as it is fascinating. It's relatively safe to visit during the day, but even then, try not to walk around alone. Lock your valuables in the hotel safe and hang on to your wallet.

More and more foreigners are visiting at night, mainly to patronize some of the newly emerging restaurants, but keep your wits about you. It's better to take a taxi to where you're going.

Never wander down some dark labyrinthine street that appears deserted. Palermo's Jack the Ripper might be waiting. Just kidding: We're only trying to frighten you to be cautious. Instead of Jack the Ripper, you are more likely to encounter Jack the Mugger. These thugs, usually rejects from the Mafia, want your money or valuables more than your life, if that's any consolation.